Pungent onion varieties, which have low water content, will keep longer than sweeter, moister types. Onions keep best when kept separated individual foil wrapped specimens can last up to a year under refrigeration.
When the outer skins have dried, complete harvesting by clipping the roots, wiping off any remaining soil and cutting the tops back to 1” above the bulb. Place the tops of one row over the bulbs of another to keep them from becoming sunburned. Harvest bulbs after the tops have turned brown. This bending will stop the sap from diverting energy into the leaves while the bulb matures. Finish bending the tops horizontal to the ground by hand or with a rake for those that have not completely fallen over. Onions are mature and ready to harvest when their tops have yellowed and begin to fall over.
#Onion seed starting free#
Water up until the time you harvest! Beds kept weed free and properly irrigated will require little additional care. Regular irrigation is necessary anytime rainfall is not sufficient to provide the 1” of water per week required to keep bulbs from splitting in hot dry soil or tasting bitter at harvest. Weed suppression is critical for onions you can grow weeds or onions, but not both. Mulching will suppress weeds, maintain soil moisture and protect bulbs from “heaving” (working their way out of the soil) during extreme temperature cycles. Mulch deeply (up to 8”) in cold winter areas but only lightly in milder climates. Onions should be mulched and supplied with ample phosphorus while growing. Harvest young plants for use as scallions, thinning to 3–4” spacing. “Scatter planting” among vegetables in inter-planted gardens is sometimes utilized to ward off a variety of pests, but onions must not be forced to face heavy competition from surrounding neighbors. If planted on raised beds which are approximately 20” wide, transplants should be planted in double-rows 4” from each edge.
Rows should be 18–24” apart or 12” apart if planting for commercial production. Plant close as 3” apart if smaller onions are desired. Plant onion transplants 1–2” deep (to the top of white section) and 4–6” apart. The sooner you plant the better!īefore planting, trim onion transplant tops to approximately 3” and roots to ¼.” Roots will begin to grow rapidly once planted. If you cannot plant them immediately upon receipt, remove the onion transplants from the plastic bag and spread them out in a cool, dry location until ready for the garden. Onion transplants are often wilted when they arrive, but like other members of the hardy lily family, they will survive for about 2–3 weeks after being pulled from the soil. Fall is the optimum time to plant onions in mild climates. We ship onion transplants in the fall and spring. Keep the bed well weeded as onions do not like competition from weeds or other plants. The soil should be loose and have a good supply of phosphorus. Plant the transplants about 2” deep and 4-6” apart. When daytime temperatures are at least 50☏, trim the tops to about 4” and transplant them into your garden. When the seedlings are about 2" tall, you can feed them with a very dilute solution of fish and kelp (follow the directions on the label). Onions are pretty slow growing, just keep the soil moist and once seeds have germinated, supply them with a good grow light or place in a sunny window. Onions seeds can take up to a week to germinate.
Use a good quality seed starting mix ( our Organic Quickroot works great) and sow about a half inch deep. If you're wondering when to plant your onion seeds, enter your last frost date (for spring planting) and first frost date (for fall planting) into our Seed Planting Calculator. It will calculate the best dates to direct seed or start seeds indoors. If you live in very cold winter regions, start seeds indoors in February or plant directly in the garden in warm winter regions. Onions are easy to grow from seed and can be started about 10-12 weeks before you are ready to transplant them outside.
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